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Varanasi

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   Varanasi
   वाराणसी وارانسی
   Varanasi
   वाराणसी وارانسی
   State
    -  District(s)   Uttar Pradesh
                      -  Varanasi
   Coordinates       25.36° N 83.13° E
   Area
    -  Elevation     1550  km²
                      - 80.71 m
   Time zone         IST ( UTC+5:30)
   Population ( 2001)
    -  Density       1,211,749
                      - ?/km²
   Mayor              ?
   Codes
    -  Postal
    - Telephone
    -  Vehicle
                      - 221 001
                      - +0542
                      - UP-65

   Vārāṇasī pronunciation  (Hindī: वाराणसी, Urdū: وارانسی, IPA:
   [vɑːrɑːɳəsiː]), also known as Benares, Banaras, or Benaras (Hindī:
   बनारस, Urdū: بنارس, Banāras; IPA: [bənɑːrəs]), or Kashi or Kasi (काशी
   کاشی Kāśī), is a famous Hindu holy city situated on the banks of the
   river Ganges (Ganga) in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is one of
   the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world, dating back
   thousands of years and being contemporaneous with Sumer. In Rig-Veda,
   early periods mentioning Mandals like 6,3,7,Early I mentions Kasi. It
   is often also referred to as city of temples and learning".

   The culture of Varanasi is deeply associated with the river Ganga and
   its religious importance. The city has been a cultural and religious
   centre in northern India for thousands of years. Varanasi has its own
   style of classical Hindustani music, and has produced prominent
   musicians, philosophers, poets, and writers in Indian history,
   including Kabir, Munshi Premchand, Jaishankar Prasad, Pandit Ravi
   Shankar, and Ustad Bismillah Khan. The city has its own dialect of
   Hindi. Varanasi is also the home of Banaras Hindu University.

Name

   The official name of Varanasi is not a modern name. It is possibly
   based on the fact that it lies between where the Varuna River, to the
   north, and the river Assi, to the south, flow into the river Ganga .
   The name Varanasi was spelt Baranasi in Pali, which ultimately gave
   birth to the name Banaras. The different spellings such as Benares and
   Benaras were in active use during the British regime in India, but
   these forms of the name are now lost. The name Banaras is still widely
   used.

   Another theory about the origin of the name suggests that the river
   Varuna itself was called Varanasi in the old times, thus the name of
   the city. This is generally disregarded by historians though there may
   be some earlier texts suggesting it to be so.

   In literature and scripture, the city is often referred to poetically
   as Kashi, "the luminous"; an allusion to the city's historical status
   as a centre of learning, literature, and culture.

   The city is very commonly referred to as "city of temples," "holy city
   of India," "religious capital of India," and "city of learning." It is
   also called "cultural capital of India."

History

   The information as to how and from whom the city was founded is still
   unknown. According to the myth, the city was founded by Hindu deity
   Shiva, thus making it one of the most important pilgrimage destinations
   in the country. In fact, it is one of the eight sacred cities of
   Hindus.

   Many references to the city of Varanasi are found in many ancient
   texts, leading to more mystery. It has been suggested that the city is
   as old as 5000 years old, though other claims may push the date further
   into history. Some believe that Varanasi is the oldest continually
   inhabited city in the world.

   Varanasi was a commercial and industrial centre famous for its muslin
   and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture. During the time
   of Gautama Buddha ( born circa 567 BCE), Varanasi was the capital of
   the kingdom of Kashi. Buddha gave his first sermon at the nearby town
   of Sarnath. The city remained a centre of religious, educational, and
   artistic activities as attested by the celebrated Chinese traveler
   Xuanzang, who also said that the city extended for about 5 km along the
   western bank of the Ganges.

   After the Muslim occupation, Varanasi subsequently declined during the
   following centuries. A symbol of Hinduism, the city was pillaged and
   destroyed several times by the Muslims, first by the hordes of Mahmud
   of Ghazni in 1033 CE, all Hindu temples being destroyed. The material
   was used to build mosques. Although some relief was brought by Mughal
   emperor Akbar in the start of 16th century CE, another destruction was
   led by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in end of the 16th century CE, who
   renamed the city Mohammadâbâd. In these years of Muslim rule, learned
   scholars fled to other parts of the country. Later the Marathas came to
   rescue the city.
   Varanasi (Benares) in 1922.
   Enlarge
   Varanasi (Benares) in 1922.

   Varanasi became an independent kingdom in the 18th century CE, and
   under subsequent British rule it remained a commercial and religious
   centre. In 1910 CE the British made Varanasi a new Indian state, with
   Ramnagar as headquarters but with no jurisdiction over the city of
   Varanasi. Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) still resides in the fort of
   Ramnagar.

   It is also said that Ayurveda was originated at Varanasi. References to
   Varanasi can be found in age-old Indian scriptures and hymns. One such
   reference is found in one of the hymns written by Sri Veda Vyasa:

                Ganga-taranga-ramaneeya-jataakalaapam,
                Gauri-nirantara-vibhushita- vaamabhaagam.
                Narayanapriyam-Ananga-madaapahaaram,
                Varanasi -pura-patim bhaja Vishwanatham.

   Famous American writer Mark Twain once wrote, "Benares is older than
   history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice
   as old as all of them put together!"

Geography

   The city of Varanasi is located in the middle Ganga valley of North
   India, in the Eastern part of the state of Uttar Pradesh, along the
   left crescent-shaped bank of the Ganga river. The Varanasi City is the
   district headquarters of the Varanasi district. The "Varanasi Urban
   Agglomeration" — an agglomeration of seven urban sub-units — covers an
   area of 112.26  km² (approximetely 43 mi²). The urban agglomeration is
   streched between 82º 56’E - 83º 03’E and 25º 14’N - 25º 23.5’N. Being
   located in broad plain of North India, (also called as Gangetic
   plains), the land can be very much called as plain. Due to yearly low
   level floods in river, the soil is repeatedly replenished and hence is
   very productive for agriculture for most of the part of the city.

   On a local level though, Varanasi is located on a higher ground between
   rivers Ganga and Varuna, the mean elevation being 80.71  m. The main
   land is relatively stony, which with the absence of small
   distributaries and canals, provides a continuous and relatively dry
   land, which was perfect for settling down in the ancient times.

   It is often difficult to suggest the original geography of Varanasi,
   due to conflicts between descriptions provided in old texts and city's
   current status. It is often said that Varanasi is situated between the
   two confluences: one of Ganga and Varuna and other of Ganga and river
   Assi. The statement gets its weight from the fact that the distance
   between these two confluences is around 2.5 miles, and a round trip to
   between these two places is considered holy by Hindus, and is called
   Pancha-kroshi Yatra (the five mile journey).

   On the contrary, though Varuna and Ganga do exist as rivers, Assi also
   exists but only as a nullah. Also, there is no evidence that Assi was
   ever a big river.

Climate

   Varanasi has a humid subtropical climate with high variation between
   summer and winter temperatures. Summers are long, from early April till
   October, with the monsoon season in between. Cold waves from the
   Himalayan region dip temperatures across the city in the winter from
   December to February. The average temperature is 32  °C–46 °C (90
   °F–115 °F) in the summer; 5 °C–15 °C (41 °F–59 °F) in the winter. The
   average annual rainfall is 1110  mm (44  in). Fog is common in winter
   while hot dry winds called loo blow in summer. The city is relatively
   free from the air pollution. Recently due to water pollution, making of
   dams, and increase in temperature due to global warming etc., the water
   of river has gone significantly down and small portions of land can be
   seen in the middle of the river.

Economy

   Varanasi has several small cottage industries, including Silk sari
   making, the production of textiles such as hand-woven carpets, and
   handicrafts. The Banarasi Pan (betel leaves) and Banarasi Khoa (a milk
   product, somewhat similar to cheese) sweets are famous, and the related
   small-scale industries employ many people. Indian Railways runs a major
   diesel locomotive factory in Varanasi, Diesel Locomotive Works (DLW).

Demographics

   The population of Varanasi urban agglomeration in 2001 was 1,371,749;
   the sex ratio was 879 females every 1000 males. However, the area under
   Varanasi Municipal Corporation has a population of 1,100,748 with the
   sex ratio being 883 females for every 1000 males. The literacy rate in
   the urban agglomeration is 61.5% while that in the municipal
   corporation area is 61%. Approximately 138,000 people in the municipal
   area live in slums. The crime rate in the city in 2004 was 128.5 per
   100,000 which is higher than Uttar Pradesh rate of 73.2 but lower than
   the national rate of 168.8.

Transport

   A typical rickshaw
   Enlarge
   A typical rickshaw

   Auto Rickshaw and Rickshaw are the most widely available public
   transport within Varanasi. In outer regions of the city, mini-buses are
   common. Small boats and small steamers are used to cross the river
   Ganga.

   Varanasi is well connected by air, rail and buses with all the
   important places of India. Its distance from Delhi is about 700 kms.
   The airport is about 25 km from the city centre.

   One of the major factors for sustainment of Varanasi for such a long
   time as an inhabited city, is its effective transport between different
   cities. From ancient times the city was connected to cities like
   Taxila, Gazipur, Pataliputra, Vaishali, Ayodhya, Gorakhpur, Agra etc.

   The city was connected through a single road from Taxila going through
   Pataliputra during Mauryan empire. This road was later renovated and
   extended by Sher Shah Suri during 16th century, which was later to be
   known as the famous Grand Trunk Road.

Civic administration and utility services

   Varanasi is governed by a number of bodies, the prime being the
   Varanasi Nagar Nigam (Municipal Corporation) and Varanasi Development
   Authority, which is responsible for the master planning of the city.
   Water supply and sewage system is maintained by Jal Nigam, a subsidiary
   of Nagar Nigam. Power supply is by the Uttar Pradesh Power Corporation
   Limited. The city produces about 350 million litres per day of sewer
   and 425 tonnes per day of solid waste. The solid wastes are disposed in
   one landfill site. A huge amount of sewer flows into the river Ganga
   daily. Nagar Nigam also runs a bus service in the city and suburban
   areas. The city is within the Varanasi range of Varanasi zone of Uttar
   Pradesh Police. A Special Superintendent of Police is the highest
   ranking police officer in the city. The city constitutes one
   parliamentary constituency. Indian National Congress won the
   constituency in Indian general election, 2004.

People and culture

   Regions near the banks of river Ganga are extremely crowded and house
   several Hindu temples, narrow winding lanes and road-side shops. The
   main residential areas of Varanasi (especially for the middle and upper
   classes) are situated in regions far from the ghats; they are more
   spacious and less polluted. Such a place in an Indian city is called a
   housing colony.

Holy city

   Situated on the banks of river Ganga, Varanasi attracts thousands of
   Hindu piligrims every year.
   Enlarge
   Situated on the banks of river Ganga, Varanasi attracts thousands of
   Hindu piligrims every year.
   People performing Hindu ceremony at one of the ghats of Varanasi
   Enlarge
   People performing Hindu ceremony at one of the ghats of Varanasi

   Varanasi is said to be the most holy city in Hinduism. It is considered
   as the most sacred place of pilgrimage for Hindus irrespective of
   denomination. More than 1,000,000 pilgrims visit the city each year.

   Varanasi is the site of the holy shrine of Kashi Vishwanath (an aspect
   of Lord Shiva), one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas of the Lord
   Shiva.

   It is believed by Hindus that bathing in the river Ganga results in
   remission of sins and that dying in the holy city of Kashi (Varanasi)
   circumvents rebirth.

   This holy city is adored as one of the Shakti Peethas where Divine
   Mother Sati's earring fell and devotees believe that therein stands the
   present Vishalakshi Temple.

   In the residential neighbourhood of the city lies Sarnath, the site of
   the deer park where Gautama Buddha is said to have given his first
   sermon about the basic principles of Buddhism. It is one of the four
   pilgrimage sites designated by Gautama Buddha, the other three being
   Kushinagar, Bodh Gaya, and Lumbini. Here the Dhamek Stupa is a
   impressive structure marking the spot where the Buddha gave his first
   sermon. The Dharmarajika Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas
   remaining, although only the foundations remain. Also remaining is the
   Chaukhandi Stupa commemorating the spot where the Buddha met his first
   disciples, dating back to the fifth century or earlier amd later
   enhanced by the addition of an octagonal tower.

   Varanasi is also a pilgrimage place for Jains. It is believed to be the
   birthplace of Parshvanatha, the twenty-third Tirthankar.

   Vaishnavism and Shaivism have co-existed in Varanasi harmoniously. The
   city has also been influenced by Islamic culture.

   This explains the continuous tension between communities in the city
   and the fact that really ancient monuments are few. However, Varanasi
   has kept its sacred position as the Holy City of Hinduism.

Temples

   Varanasi is a city of temples. Almost every road crossing has a nearby
   temple. Such small temples are the basis of daily local prayers and
   other rituals. But there are many large temples too, erected at
   different times through out the history of Varanasi.

   Kashi Vishwanath Temple, also called Golden Temple, which in its
   present shape was built in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore,
   is located on the outskirts of the Ganga. This temple makes Varanasi a
   place of great religious importance to the Hindus, as Vishweshwara or
   Vishwanatha, the aforementioned Jyotirlinga of the Lord Shiva is
   enshrined here. It is said that a single view of Vishwanatha
   Jyotirlinga is considered to merit more than that of other
   jyotirlingas. A Naubatkhana was built up in front of the Temple by the
   collector Mohammed Ibrahim Khan at the instance of Governor General
   Warren Hastings in 1785. In 1839, Punjab Kesari Maharaja Ranjeet Singh,
   the ruler of Punjab donated gold to cover the two domes of the temple.
   On January 28, 1983 the Temple was taken over by the government of
   Uttar Pradesh and its management was transferred to a trust with Late
   Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh, then Kashi Naresh, as president and an
   executive committee with Divisional Commissioner as chairman.

   The temple was once destroyed by Aurangzeb who built a mosque on it. It
   was later resurrected at a location near the mosque, and is many times
   a cause of local strain among Hindus and Muslims.
   Red coloured Durga Temple
   Enlarge
   Red coloured Durga Temple

   Durga Temple, also called Monkey temple, was built at some point of
   time in 18th century by a Bengali Maharani. The temple got its name as
   'Monkey temple' because of the presence of large number of monkeys in
   the temple. According to legends, the present statue of Goddess Durga
   was not made by man but appeared on its own in the temple. Thousands of
   Hindu devotees visit the Durga temple during Navratri and other
   auspicious occasions. Non-Hindus can enter the courtyard of the Durga
   temple but not the inner sanctum.

   The architecture is of Nagara Style, which is typical of North India.
   The temple is accompanied by a rectangular tank of water called Durga
   Kund. The temple has multi-tiered spires and is stained red with ochre,
   signifying the red colour of Durga. The Kund was earlier connected to
   the river itself thus refreshing the water. This tunnel was later
   closed, leading to locked water which is replenished only by rain or
   drainage from the Temple. Every year on the occasion of Nag panchami,
   the act of depicting Lord Vishnu reclining on the coiled-up Shesha
   Naga, with his consort Lakshmi, seated at his feet; the assemblage
   resting on the "Kshira Sagar" is repeated in the Kund.

   (New) Vishwanath Temple, also called Birla Temple was built by Birla
   family of industrialists. It was built as a replica of the old Kashi
   Vishwanath Temple.. The temple was planned by Pandit Madan Mohan
   Malaviya, who wanted the temple to stand for national revival. The
   temple is open to people from all castes and religions.

Art

   A holy city, Varanasi does not take a backseat when it comes to fine
   arts and literature. Great Indian writers have lived in this city from
   Kabir and Tulsidas to Bharatendu Harishchandra, Jayshankar Prasad,
   Hazari Prasad Dwivedi; even named after the city, e.g. Kashi Nath
   Singh.

   Art lovers and historians like Rai Krishnadas, his son Prof. Anand
   Krishna, musicians like Pt. Omkarnath Thakur, Ustad Bismillah Khan,
   Siddheshwari Devi, Dr. Lalmani Misra, Dr. N. Rajam, Pt. Anokhelal, Pt.
   Samta Prasad, Kanthe Maharaj and numerous others have kept the city
   alive to the spiritual aspect of fine arts apart from their ability to
   entertain. Numerous festivals are celebrated that preserve traditional
   styles of classical and folk culture. All night, open music concerts
   like ones organised at Sankat Mochan Temple, Hori, Kajri and Chaiti
   Mela, Budwa Mangal, are annual features that draw connoisseurs from all
   over.

Education

   Varanasi's schools are either run by the state government or by private
   (many of which are religious) organisations. Schools mainly use English
   or Hindi as the medium of instruction. The schools are affiliated with
   the Indian Certificate of Secondary Education (ICSE), the Central Board
   for Secondary Education (CBSE), or the U.P. Board of High School &
   Intermediate Education. Under the 10+2+3 plan, after completing their
   secondary education, students typically enrol in a 2 year junior
   college (also known as a pre-university) or in schools with a higher
   secondary facility. Students usually choose from one of three streams —
   liberal arts, commerce, or science, though vocational streams are also
   available. Upon completing the required coursework, students may enrol
   in general or professional degree programmes.

   Varanasi is the site of three public universities. Banaras Hindu
   University, which includes Institute of Technology ( IT-BHU), is among
   the top 3 largest residential universities in the world having more
   than 128 independent teaching departments. Mahatma Gandhi Kashi
   Vidyapeeth University and Sampoornanand Sanskrit University are the
   other two universities. Central Institute for Higher Tibetan Studies at
   Sarnath is a deemed university with a preference for the traditional
   Tibetan method of teaching within a framework of modern universities.
   Varanasi is also noted for many private and public institutes that
   provide Hindu religious teaching. Since ancient times people have been
   coming to Varanasi to learn philosophy, Sanskrit, astrology, social
   science and religious teachings. In Indian tradition, Varanasi is often
   called "Sarva Vidya Ki Rajdhani" (capital of knowledge).

Tourism

   Probably due to its unique culture, Varanasi is a major tourist
   destination for foreign tourists in India. A number of 3 and 4 star
   hotels are present in the city. All sort of cuisines are available
   mostly as street food due to rich and hospitable culture of Varanasi.

Terrorist Acts in Varanasi

   On 7th March, 2006, terrorists planted as many as four explosive
   devices in Varanasi. Around 20 people were reported killed, and many
   were injured. One of the bombs was planted in the Sankat Mochan Temple,
   a shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman, while another was planted on a
   platform of the Varanasi Cantonment Railway Station, the main railway
   station in the city. An unknown Islamic group called Lashkar-e-Kahab
   claimed responsibility for the terror attacks but investigation led to
   the Pakistani terrorist outfit Lashkar-E-Tayyaba.

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