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The Catlins

2007 Schools Wikipedia Selection. Related subjects: Geography of Oceania
(Australasia)

                                 The Catlins

           Location of the Catlins in New Zealand's South Island.

   Location
   Country: New Zealand
   Island: South Island
   Statistics
   Population: approximately 1,200 (2001)
   Area: 1,900 km² / 730 sq mi
   Location
   Latitude: 46° 30' S
   Longitude: 169° 30' E
   Administration
   Regions: Otago and Southland
   Districts: Clutha District and Southland District
   Main towns and settlements: Owaka, Waikawa, Kaka Point, Fortrose
   Parliamentary electorate: Clutha-Southland

   The Catlins (sometimes referred to as The Catlins Coast) is an area in
   the southeastern corner of the South Island of New Zealand. The area is
   between Balclutha and Invercargill, and is in both the Otago and
   Southland regions. It includes the South Island's southernmost point,
   Slope Point.

   The Catlins is a rugged, sparsely populated area, noted for its scenic
   coastal landscape and its dense temperate rainforest, both of which are
   home to many endangered species of birds. Its exposed location leads to
   its frequently wild weather and heavy ocean swells, which are an
   attraction to big-wave surfers.

   Ecotourism is now a growing factor in the economy, which otherwise
   relies heavily on dairy farming and fishing. The region's early whaling
   and forestry industries have long since died away, along with the
   coastal shipping that led to several tragic shipwrecks. Only some 1,200
   people now live in the area, many of them in the settlement of Owaka.

Geography

   The Catlins area covers some 1900 km² (730 sq mi) and is roughly
   triangular in shape, extending up to 50 km (30 mi) inland and along a
   stretch of coast 90 km (60 mi) in extent. It is bounded to the
   northeast and west by the mouths of two large rivers, the Clutha River
   in the northeast and the Mataura River in the west. To the north and
   northwest, the rough bush-clad hills give way to rolling pastoral
   countryside drained and softened by the actions of tributaries of these
   two rivers such as the Pomahaka River.
   Map of The Catlins.
   Enlarge
   Map of The Catlins.

   The Catlins boasts a rugged, scenic coastline. Natural features include
   sandy beaches, blowholes, a petrified forest at Curio Bay, and the
   Cathedral Caves, which are accessible at low tide. Much of the
   coastline is high cliff, with several faces over 150 m (500 ft) in
   height, and the land rises sharply from the coast at most points. For
   this reason, many of the area's rivers cascade over waterfalls as they
   approach the ocean (notably the iconic Purakaunui Falls on the short
   Purakaunui River).

   The South Island's southernmost point, Slope Point, is close to the
   southwestern corner of the Catlins. To the west of this lies Waipapa
   Point, often considered the boundary of the Catlins region, beyond
   which lies the swampy land around the mouth of the Mataura River at the
   eastern end of Toetoes Bay. The western boundary of the Catlins region
   is not well-defined, however, and some more stringent definitions
   exclude even Slope Point.

   The interior of the Catlins is dominated by several parallel hill
   ranges separated by the valleys of the Owaka, Catlins and Tahakopa
   Rivers, which all drain southeastwards into the Pacific Ocean. The most
   notable of these ranges is the Maclennan Range. Between them, these
   hills are often simply referred to as the Catlins Ranges. Their
   northwestern slopes are drained by several tributaries of the Clutha
   and Mataura Rivers, most notably the Mokoreta River, which flows mainly
   westwards, reaching the Mataura close to the town of Wyndham.
   Purakaunui Falls, 17 km (11 mi) southwest of Owaka.
   Enlarge
   Purakaunui Falls, 17 km (11 mi) southwest of Owaka.

   The highest point in the Catlins is Mount Pye, at 720 m (2361 ft),
   which is located 25 km (15 mi) north-northeast of Waikawa and close to
   the source of the Mokoreta River, and marks part of the Otago-Southland
   border. Other prominent peaks above 600 m (2000 ft) include Mount
   Rosebery, Catlins Cone, Mount Tautuku, and Ajax Hill.

   Several small lakes are found in the Catlins, notably scenic Lake
   Wilkie close to the Tautuku Peninsula. Catlins Lake, near Owaka, is
   actually the tidal estuary of the Catlins River.

   The Catlins coast is notoriously dangerous for mariners, and there have
   been many shipwrecks on the headlands that jut into the Pacific Ocean
   here. Two lighthouses stand at opposite ends of the Catlins to help
   prevent further mishaps. The Nugget Point lighthouse stands 76 m
   (250 ft) above the water at the end of Nugget Point, casting its light
   across a series of eroded stacks (the "nuggets" which give the point
   its name). It was built in 1869-70. The Waipapa Point light, which
   stands only 21 m (70 ft) above sea level, was the last wooden
   lighthouse to be built in New Zealand, and was constructed in 1884 in
   response to the tragic 1881 wreck of the Tararua. Both of these
   lighthouses are now fully automated.

   Due to its position at the southern tip of New Zealand, the Catlins
   coastline is exposed to some of the country's largest ocean swells,
   often over 5 m (16 ft). Big wave surfing is developing into a regional
   attraction, with regular competitions and feats like Dunedin surfer
   Doug Young's award-winning 11 m (36 ft) wave in 2003 gathering
   publicity for the sport.

Climate

   The Catlins has a cool maritime temperate climate, somewhat cooler than
   other parts of the South Island, which is strongly modified by the
   effect of the Pacific Ocean. Winds can be strong, especially on the
   exposed coast; most of the South Island's storms develop to the south
   or southwest of the island, and thus the Catlins catches the brunt of
   many of these weather patterns.

   Precipitation is considerably higher than on most of the South Island's
   east coast, especially in the central and southern Catlins; heavy rain
   is infrequent, but drizzle is common and 200 days of rain in a year is
   not unusual. Rain days are spread fairly evenly throughout the year;
   there is no particularly rainy season in the northern Catlins, and only
   a slight tendency towards more autumn rain in the southwest. The
   average annual rainfall recorded at the Tautuku Outdoor Education
   Centre is about 1300 mm (51 in), with little variation from year to
   year.

   Fine days can be sunny and warm, and daily maxima may exceed 30 °C
   (86 °F) in mid summer (January-February). A more usual daily maximum in
   summer would be 18-20 °C (64-68 °F). Snow is rare except on the peaks
   even in the coldest part of winter, though frost is quite common during
   the months of June to September. Typical daily maximum temperatures in
   winter are 10-13 °C (50-55 °F).

History

   The first people known to live in the Catlins were Māori of the Kāti
   Mamoe, Waitaha, and Kāi Tahu iwi. These peoples merged via marriage and
   conquest into the iwi now known as Kāi Tahu. Archaeological evidence of
   human presence dates back to AD 1000. The area's inhabitants were
   semi-nomadic, travelling from Stewart Island/Rakiura in the south and
   inland to Central Otago. They generally dwelt near river mouths for
   easy access to the best food resources. In legend, the Catlins forests
   further inland were inhabited by Maeroero (wild giants).

   The Catlins were one of the last places that the giant flightless bird,
   the moa, could be readily hunted, and the timber of the forest was
   ideal for canoe construction (the name of the settlement Owaka means
   "Place of the canoe"). No formal Māori pa were located in the Catlins,
   but there were many hunting camps, notably at Papatowai, near the mouth
   of the Tahakopa River.
   The distant Tautuku Peninsula hosted an early whaling station.
   Enlarge
   The distant Tautuku Peninsula hosted an early whaling station.

   The area was first sighted by Europeans in 1770 by the crew of James
   Cook's Endeavour. Cook named a bay in the Catlins area Molineux's
   Harbour after his ship's master Robert Molineux. Although this was
   almost certainly the mouth of the Waikawa River, the name was later
   applied to a bay to the northeast, close to the mouth of the Clutha
   River, which itself was for many years known as the Molyneux River.

   The first European settlement was by sealers and whalers in the early
   years of the 19th century, at which time the hunting of marine mammals
   was the principal economic activity in New Zealand. A whaling station
   was established on the Tautuku Peninsula in 1839, with smaller stations
   at Waikawa and close to the mouth of the Clutha River.

   The Catlins take their name from the Catlins River, itself named for
   Captain Edward Cattlin (sometimes spelt Catlin), a whaler who purchased
   an extensive block of land along Catlins River on February 15, 1840
   from Kāi Tahu chief Hone Tuhawaiki (also known as "Bloody Jack") for
   muskets and £30 (roughly NZ$3000 in 2005 dollars). The purchase was
   rejected by New Zealand's land commissioners and much of the land was
   returned to the Māori after long negotiations ending over a decade
   after Cattlin's death.

   During the mid-19th century, the area developed into a major sawmilling
   region, much of the wood being shipped north to the newly developing
   town of Dunedin from the ports of Waikawa and Fortrose. A 200 ft (60 m)
   long jetty was built at Fortrose in 1875, although this has long since
   disappeared.
   The Nugget Point lighthouse: protecting ships since 1870. Photo by
   Brett Taylor.
   Enlarge
   The Nugget Point lighthouse: protecting ships since 1870.
   Photo by Brett Taylor.

   Several shipwrecks occurred along the treacherous coastline during this
   period. The most notable of these, and also one of New Zealand's worst
   shipping disasters, was the wreck of the passenger steamer Tararua, en
   route from Bluff to Port Chalmers, which foundered off Waipapa Point on
   April 29, 1881 with the loss of all but 20 of the 151 people aboard.

   Another noted shipwreck was that of the Surat on New Year's Day 1874.
   This ship, holed on rocks near Chasland's Mistake eight kilometres
   southeast of Tautuku Peninsula, limped as far as the mouth of the
   Catlins River before orders were given to abandon ship. A beach at the
   mouth of the Catlins River is named Surat Bay in commemoration of this
   wreck. The schooner Wallace and steamer Otago were also both wrecked at
   or near Chasland's Mistake, in 1866 and 1876 respectively, and a 4600
   tonne steamer, the Manuka, ran aground at Long Point north of Tautuku
   in 1929.

   From the Great Depression on until the formation of the New Zealand
   Rabbit Board in 1954, rabbits were a major pest in the area, and
   rabbiters were employed to keep the creatures under control. The
   trapping of rabbits and auctioning of their skins in Dunedin became a
   minor but important part of the Catlins area's economy during this
   time.

   After a decline in the 1890s, the logging of native timber expanded
   into new areas made accessible by an extension of the railway, before
   petering out in the mid-20th century. One nail in the industry's coffin
   was a series of bush fires which destroyed several mills in 1935. Much
   of the remaining forest is now protected by the New Zealand Department
   of Conservation as part of the Catlins Forest Park.

Natural history

Wildlife

   Hooker's Sea Lions may be seen along the Catlins coast.
   Enlarge
   Hooker's Sea Lions may be seen along the Catlins coast.

   The Catlins coast is a common haunt of New Zealand Fur Seals and
   Hooker's Sea Lions, and Southern Elephant Seals can occasionally be
   seen. Several species of penguin also nest along the coast, notably the
   rare Yellow-eyed Penguin (Hoiho), as do mollymawks and Australian
   Gannets, and the estuaries of the rivers are home to herons, stilts,
   godwits and oystercatchers. Bitterns and the threatened Fernbird
   (Matata) can also occasionally be seen along the reedy riverbanks.

   In the forests, endangered birds such as the Yellowhead (Mohua) and
   Kakariki (New Zealand Parakeet) may be observed, as may other birds
   such as the Tui, Fantail (Piwakawaka), and Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon).
   One of New Zealand's only two species of non-marine mammal, the
   Long-tailed Bat, is found in small numbers within the forests, and
   several species of lizard are also found locally, the most populous of
   which is the Common Gecko.

   Many species of fish, shellfish, and crustaceans are found both in the
   local rivers and sea, notably crayfish and Paua. Nugget Point in the
   northern Catlins is host to a particularly rich variety of marine
   wildlife. The proposed establishment of a marine reserve off the coast
   here has, however, proved controversial. Hector's Dolphins can often be
   seen close to the Catlins coast, especially at Porpoise Bay near
   Waikawa.
   Forested areas show dark green in this satellite picture of the
   Catlins.
   Enlarge
   Forested areas show dark green in this satellite picture of the
   Catlins.

Flora

   The Catlins is noted for its dense temperate rainforest, dominated by
   podocarps (which covers some 600 km² or 230 sq mi of the Catlins). The
   forest is thick with trees such as Rimu, Totara, Silver Beech, Matai
   and Kahikatea. Of particular note are the virgin Rimu and Totara forest
   remaining in those areas which were too rugged or steep to have been
   milled by early settlers, and an extensive area of Silver Beech forest
   close to the Takahopa River. This is New Zealand's most southerly
   expanse of Beech forest. Many native species of forest plant can be
   found in the undergrowth of the Catlins forest, including the
   Lancewood, orchids such as the Spider Orchid and Perching Easter
   Orchid, and many different native ferns.

   Much of the Catlins' coastal vegetation has been cleared for farmland,
   but there are still areas where the original coastal plant life
   survives, primarily around cliff edges and some of the bays close to
   the Tautuku Peninsula, these being furthest from the landward edges of
   the forest. Plant life here includes many native species adapted to the
   strong salt-laden winds found in this exposed region. The Catlins
   coastal daisy (Celmisia lindsayii) is unique to the region, and is
   related to New Zealand's mountain daisies. Tussocks, hebes, and flaxes
   are a common sight, as are native gentians, though sadly the endangered
   native sedge pingao can now rarely be found. In years when the Southern
   Rata flowers well, the coastal forest canopy turns bright red. The rata
   also thrives in some inland areas.
   A petrified log at Curio Bay.
   Enlarge
   A petrified log at Curio Bay.

Geology

   The parallel hill ranges of the Catlins form part of the Murihiku
   terrane, an accretion which extends inland through the Hokonui Hills as
   far west as Mossburn. This is itself part of a larger system known as
   the Southland Syncline, which is linked to similar formations in Nelson
   (offset by the Alpine Fault) and even New Caledonia, 3,500 km
   (2,200 mi) away. The Catlins ranges are strike ridges composed of
   Triassic and Jurassic sandstones, mudstones and other related
   sedimentary rocks, often with a high incidence of feldspar. Fossils of
   the late and middle Triassic Warepan and Kaihikuan stages are found in
   the area.

   Curio Bay features the petrified remains of a 160 million year old
   forest. This is a remnant of the subtropical woodland that once covered
   the region, only to become submerged by the sea. The fossilised
   remnants of trees closely related to modern Kauri and Norfolk Pine can
   be seen here.

Population and demographics

   The Catlins area is very sparsely populated, and the region as a whole
   has a population of only some 1200 people. Almost all of the Catlins'
   population lies either close to the route of the former State Highway
   running from Balclutha to Invercargill or in numerous tiny coastal
   settlements, most of which have only a few dozen inhabitants.

   The largest town in the Catlins, Owaka, has a population of about 400.
   It is located 35 km (20 mi) southwest of Balclutha. The only other
   settlements of any great size are Kaka Point (population 150), Waikawa
   and Fortrose, which lies at the western edge of the Catlins on the
   estuary of the Mataura River. Most of the area's other settlements are
   either little more than farming communities (such as Romahapa,
   Maclennan, and Glenomaru) or seasonally populated holiday communities
   with few permanent residents. An outdoor education centre, run by the
   Otago Youth Adventure Trust is located at Tautuku, almost exactly half
   way between Owaka and Waikawa.

   The area's population has declined to its current level from around
   2700 in 1926. At that time, the settlement of Tahakopa - which now has
   a population of under 100 - rivalled Owaka in size, with a population
   of 461 compared with Owaka's 557. It is only in the last twenty years
   that this decline has halted, with today's population figures being
   very similar to those of 1986.

   The Catlins area's best known inhabitant is poet Hone Tuwhare. Born in
   Northland, Tuwhare now lives at Kaka Point, and many of his poems refer
   to the Catlins.

   The area's population is predominantly European, with 94.2% of Owaka's
   population belonging to the European ethnic group according to the 2001
   Census, compared to 93.7% for the Otago region and 80.1% for New
   Zealand as a whole. The median income in the same census was
   considerably lower than for most of the country, although the
   unemployment rate was very low (3.2%, compared with 7.5% nationwide).

Economy

   The Cathedral Caves are one of the Catlins' most popular tourist
   attractions.
   Enlarge
   The Cathedral Caves are one of the Catlins' most popular tourist
   attractions.

   The early European economy of the Catlins during the 1830s and 1840s
   was centred on whaling and sealing. The exploitation of the forests for
   timber started in the 1860s with the rapid growth of the city of
   Dunedin as a result of the goldrush of 1861-62. In the early 1870s more
   timber cargo was loaded at Owaka than at any other New Zealand port.
   Forestry and sawmilling declined in the late 1880s once the easily
   accessible timber had been removed. The extension of the railway beyond
   Owaka breathed new life into these industries, however, with activity
   peaking during the 1920s.

   The land cleared of trees was largely turned into pasture. From the
   1880s, clearing of land for dairy farming increased, especially in the
   areas around Tahakopa and the Owaka River valley. There is still
   considerable sheep and dairy farming on the cleared hills on the
   periphery of the region, and this accounts for much of the Catlins'
   income. A rural polytechnic specialising in agricultural science
   (Telford Polytechnic) is located south of Balclutha close to the
   northeastern edge of the Catlins.

   Fishing and tourism also now account for much of the area's economy.
   The rugged natural scenery, sense of isolation, and natural attractions
   such as Cathedral Caves makes the Catlins a popular destination for
   weekend trips by people from Dunedin and Invercargill, the two nearest
   cities. A large number of cribs ( holiday cottages) are found at places
   such as Jack's Bay and Pounawea. Ecotourism is becoming increasingly
   important to the area's economy, with many of the visitors coming from
   overseas. Tourism resources grew from three motels and four camping
   grounds in 1990 to eight motels, four camping grounds and 12
   backpackers hostels a decade later, along with at least ten regular
   guided tour operations. Tourism added an estimated $2.4 million to the
   region's economy in 2003.

Transport

   Only one main road traverses the Catlins, running northeast to
   southwest as an alternative road to State Highway 1 which skirts the
   Catlins to the northwest. This road - formerly designated State Highway
   92 but now no longer listed as a state highway - winds through most of
   the small settlements in the area, and was only completely sealed
   during the late 1990s (a stretch of about 15 km (10 mi) southwest of
   Tautuku was surfaced with gravel prior to that time). A coastal route
   also parallels the inland highway between Waikawa and Fortrose, but
   only about two thirds of this road is sealed.

   The remaining small roads in the district, all of which link with the
   former State Highway, are gravel-surfaced. These roads mainly link the
   main route with small coastal settlements, although gravel roads also
   extend along the valleys of the Owaka and Tahakopa Rivers, linking the
   main Catlins route with the small towns of Clinton and Wyndham
   respectively. The gravelled Waikawa Valley Road crosses the hills to
   join the Tahakopa-Wyndham route.

   A rail line, the Catlins River Branch, linked the area with the South
   Island Main Trunk Line from the late 19th century. Construction of this
   line began in 1879, but it did not reach Owaka until 1896. Construction
   was slow, due to the difficult terrain, and the final terminus of the
   line at Tahakopa was not completed until 1915. The economic viability
   of the line declined with the sawmills that it was built to serve, and
   the line was eventually closed in 1971. Parts of the line's route are
   now accessible as walkways, among them a 250 m (830 ft) long tunnel
   ("Tunnel Hill") between Owaka and Glenomaru.

   Several of the area's coastal settlements have facilities for small
   boats, but these are generally used only by fishing and holiday craft;
   there is no regular passenger or freight boat service to the Catlins.

Government

   The Catlins area is located on the boundary of the administrative areas
   of the Clutha District and Southland District. Most of the Catlins is
   located in the Clutha District, based in Balclutha, and one of the
   council's fourteen representatives is elected directly from a Catlins
   Ward which is roughly coterminous with this area. The Clutha District
   is itself part of the Otago Region, controlled administratively by the
   Otago Regional Council (ORC) in Dunedin, 80 km (50 mi) to the northeast
   of Balclutha. The Molyneux Constituency of the ORC, which covers
   roughly the same area as the Clutha District, elects two councillors to
   the 12-member Regional Council.

   Approximately the westernmost one-third of the Catlins area is in the
   Southland District, based in Invercargill, 50 km (30 mi) to the west of
   Fortrose. One of the council's 14 representatives is elected from the
   Toetoes Ward, which contains this part of the Catlins, along with an
   area around Wyndham and extending along Toetoes Bay and across the
   Awarua Plain. The Southland District is itself part of the Southland
   Region, controlled administratively by the Southland Regional Council
   (SRC; also known as Environment Southland), which is also based in
   Invercargill. The Southern Constituency of the SRC, which covers the
   entire Toetoes Ward and extends across the Awarua Plain almost as far
   as Bluff in the west and Mataura in the north, elects one councillor to
   the 12-member Regional Council.

   The Catlins is part of the Clutha-Southland electorate in New Zealand's
   general elections. The electorate is currently represented in the New
   Zealand Parliament by former Leader of the Opposition Bill English (
   National).
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