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Gyeongju

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           Gyeongju
                     Hangul: 경주시
                      Hanja: 慶州市
       Revised Romanization: Gyeongju-si
          McCune-Reischauer: Kyŏngju-si
                      Statistics
                       Area: 1,323.85 km²
                 Population: 280,092 2004 reg.
               Pop. density: 212 people/km²
   Administrative divisions: 4 eup, 8 myeon, 13 dong
              Image:Map Gyeongju-si.png

   Gyeongju is a city (see Subdivisions of South Korea) and prominent
   tourist destination in eastern South Korea. It lies in the far
   southeastern corner of North Gyeongsang Province, on the coast of the
   Sea of Japan (East Sea). Nearby cities include the industrial centers
   Ulsan and Pohang. Numerous low mountains, outliers of the Taebaek
   range, are scattered throughout the city.

   Gyeongju was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla, a fact to
   which it owes its present-day prominence. The Silla kingdom arose at
   the turn of the 1st millennium, and ruled most of the Korean Peninsula
   from the 7th to the 9th centuries. A vast number of sites from this
   period remain in the city today. After the kingdom fell, the city
   gradually declined in importance.

   Today Gyeongju is a typical medium-sized city, having shared in the
   economic, demographic, and social trends that have shaped modern South
   Korea. However, amidst these trends the city has retained a distinctive
   identity. In tourism, it is one of South Korea's best-known
   destinations. In manufacturing, it profits from its proximity to major
   industrial centers such as Ulsan. Gyeongju is connected to nationwide
   rail and expressway networks, which facilitate both industrial and
   tourist traffic.

Geography and climate

   Principal mountains and drainage patterns of Gyeongju. Mountains of
   500–700 m are in gray, those taller than 700 m in black.
   Enlarge
   Principal mountains and drainage patterns of Gyeongju. Mountains of
   500–700 m are in gray, those taller than 700 m in black.

   Gyeongju lies in the southeastern corner of North Gyeongsang Province,
   and is therefore bounded by the metropolitan city of Ulsan on the
   south. Within the province, its neighbors include Pohang on the north,
   Cheongdo County on the southwest, and Yeongcheon on the northwest. To
   the east, it has no neighbour but the sea.

   Low mountains are widespread throughout Gyeongju. The highest of these
   are the Taebaek Mountains, which run along the city's western border.
   Gyeongju's highest point, Munbok Mountain, is 1013 meters above sea
   level. This peak lies in Sannae-myeon, on the border with Cheongdo.
   East of the Taebaek range, other western peaks lie within the Jusa
   subrange. The city's eastern peaks, such as Toham Mountain, belong to
   the Dongdae Mountains, another minor subrange.

   Gyeongju's drainage patterns are shaped by these lines of mountains.
   The Dongdae Mountains divide a narrow piedmont area on their east, and
   various internal river systems to the west. Most of the city's interior
   is drained by the small Hyeongsan River, which flows north from Ulsan
   and meets the sea at Pohang Harbour. The Hyeongsan's chief tributaries
   include the Bukcheon and Namcheon, which join it in Gyeongju Basin. The
   southwestern corner of Gyeongju, on the far side of the Taebaek range,
   drains into the Geumho River, which then flows into the Nakdong. A
   small area of the south, just west of the Dongdae range, drains into
   the Taehwa River, which flows into the Bay of Ulsan.

   The Gyeongju coastline runs for 33 kilometers between Pohang in the
   north and Ulsan in the south. There are no islands or large bays, only
   the small indentations made by the small streams flowing off of the
   Dongdae ridgeline. Because of this, the city has no significant ports.
   However, there are 12 small harbors.^ One such harbour in Gyeongju's
   southeast corner is home to the Ulsan base of the National Maritime
   Police. This base is responsible for security over a wide area of South
   Korea's east-central coast.

   Thanks to its coastal location, Gyeongju has a slightly milder and
   wetter climate than more inland regions of Korea. In general, however,
   the city's climate is typical of South Korea. It has hot summers and
   cool winters, with a monsoon season between late June and early August.
   As on the rest of Korea's east coast, autumn typhoons are not uncommon.
   The average annual rainfall is 1,091 millimeters, and the average
   annual temperature is 12.2°C. ^

   Gyeongju's historic city centre lies on the banks of the Hyeongsan in
   Gyeongju Basin. This lowlying area has been subject to repeated
   flooding throughout recorded history, often as a result of typhoons. On
   average, chronicles report a major flood every 27.9 years, beginning in
   the first century.^ Modern flood control mechanisms brought about a
   dramatic reduction in flooding in the later 20th century. The last
   major flood occurred in 1991, when the Deokdong Lake reservoir
   overflowed due to Typhoon Gladys.^

History

   Burial mounds of the Silla kings.
   Enlarge
   Burial mounds of the Silla kings.

   The early history of Gyeongju is closely tied to that of the Silla
   kingdom, of which it was the capital. Gyeongju first enters non-Korean
   records as Saro-guk, during the Samhan period in the early Common Era.
   Korean records, probably based on the dynastic chronicles of Silla,
   record that Saro-guk was established in 57 BCE, when six small villages
   in the Gyeongju area united under Bak Hyeokgeose. As the kingdom
   expanded, it changed its name to Silla.

   After the unification of the peninsula in the mid-7th century, Gyeongju
   became the centre of Korean political and cultural life. The city was
   home to the Silla court, and the great majority of the kingdom's elite.
   Its prosperity became legendary, and was reported as far away as Egypt.
   The population probably exceeded one million. Many of Gyeongju's most
   famous sites date from this Unified Silla period, which ended in the
   late ninth century.

   Under the subsequent Goryeo (935-1392) and Joseon (1392-1910)
   dynasties, Gyeongju was no longer of national importance. However, it
   remained a regional centre. The city was made the seat of Yeongnam
   Province in the 10th century. It had jurisdiction over a wide area,
   including much of east-central Yeongnam, although this area was greatly
   reduced in the 13th century. In 1601, the city ceased to be the
   provincial capital.

   Over these centuries, the city's relics suffered numerous assaults. In
   the 13th century, Mongol forces destroyed a nine-story wooden pagoda at
   Hwangnyongsa.^ During the Seven Year War, Japanese forces burned the
   wooden structures at Bulguksa.^ Not all damage was due to invasions,
   however. In the early Joseon period, a great deal of damage was done to
   Buddhist sculptures on Namsan by Neo-Confucian radicals, who hacked
   arms and heads off of statuary. ^

   In the 20th century the city has remained relatively small, no longer
   ranking among the major cities of Korea. In the early 20th century many
   archaeological excavations took place, mostly on the many tombs which
   survived the centuries fairly well. A museum, the forerunner of the
   present-day Gyeongju National Museum, was set up in 1915 to exhibit the
   finds.

   Gyeongju emerged as a railroad junction in the later years of the
   Japanese Occupation, as the Donghae Nambu Line and Jungang Line were
   established. Thanks to these improved connections, the town began to
   emerge as a centre of tourism. In the 1970s, Korea saw substantial
   industrial development, much of it centered in the Yeongnam region of
   which Gyeongju is a part. The POSCO steel mill in neighboring Pohang
   commenced operations in 1973, and the chemical manufacturing complex in
   Ulsan emerged in the same year. These developments helped to support
   the emergence of Gyeongju's manufacturing sector.

Government

   Diagram of Gyeongju administrative structure. Departments are in green,
   organs are in red and gray.

   The executive branch of the government is headed by a mayor and
   vice-mayor. As in other South Korean cities and counties, the mayor is
   elected directly, while the vice-mayor holds an appointed post. The
   current mayor is Baek Sang Seung (백상승), elected in 2002. He is
   Gyeongju's third mayor to be directly elected, the fifth to preside
   over the city in its present form, and the 29th mayor since 1955. Like
   most heads of government in this region, he is a member of the
   conservative Grand National Party.

   The legislative branch consists of the Gyeongju City Council, which has
   24 members. The present City Council was formed from the merger of the
   old Gyeongju City Council with the Wolseong County Council in 1991.
   Most of the subdivisions of Gyeongju elect a single member to represent
   them in the Council, although two members represent two dong each and
   Angang-eup is represented by two members because of its large
   population. Like the mayor, the council members were last elected in
   2002, except for a small number elected in more recent by-elections. In
   April 2004, the city government employed 1,434 people. The central
   administration is composed of 4 departments, 2 subsidiary organs, a
   chamber (the auditor), and 8 business offices. The departments oversee
   a total of 21 sections. In addition, there are 25 local administrative
   divisions, as detailed below. Each such division has a small
   administrative staff and a local office.

Subdivisions

   Map of the administrative divisions of Gyeongju.

   The city is divided into 4 eup, 8 myeon, and 13 dong. These units are
   the same into which all of the cities and counties of South Korea are
   divided. The dong units occupy the area of the city centre, which was
   formerly occupied by Gyeongju-eup. Eup are typically substantial
   villages, whereas myeon are more rural. The current divisions are as
   follows:
   Romanization        Hangul Hanja Pop. (2004)* Area (km²)
   1. Sannae-myeon     산내면    山內面   3,695        142.25
   2. Seo-myeon        서면     西面    4,437        52.86
   3. Hyeongok-myeon   현곡면    見谷面   11,535       55.88
   4. Angang-eup       안강읍    安康邑   35,753       139.08
   5. Gangdong-myeon   강동면    江東面   9,006        81.48
   6. Cheonbuk-myeon   천북면    川北面   6,133        58.21
   7. Yangbuk-myeon    양북면    陽北面   4,524        120.06
   8. Gampo-eup        감포읍    甘浦邑   7,935        44.75
   9. Yangnam-myeon    양남면    陽南面   6,860        84.95
   10. Oedong-eup      외동읍    外東邑   18,347       110.34
   11. Naenam-myeon    내남면    內南面   6,062        121.96
   12. Geoncheon-eup   건천읍    乾川邑   12,235       90.46
   13. Seondo-dong     선도동    仙桃洞   12,753       28.02
   14. Seonggeon-dong  성건동    城乾洞   19,043       6.44
   15. Hwangseong-dong 황성동    隍城洞   31,381       3.84
   16. Yonggang-dong   용강동    龍江洞   16,628       5.06
   17. Bodeok-dong     보덕동    普德洞   2,266        80.94
   18. Bulguk-dong     불국동    佛國洞   3,498        37.26
   19. Tapjeong-dong   탑정동    塔正洞   5,924        19.67
   20. Jungbu-dong     중부동    中部洞   7,595        0.93
   21. Hwango-dong     황오동    皇吾洞   6,764        0.69
   22. Dongcheon-dong  동천동    東川洞   27,126       5.1
   23. Wolseong-dong   월성동    月城洞   7,036        31.4
   24. Hwangnam-dong   황남동    皇南洞   4,287        0.83
   25. Seongdong-dong  성동동    城東洞   5,319        0.64

   *Figures based on resident registration figures made available by local
   government offices. For more detailed source information, see
   Subdivisions of Gyeongju.

People and culture

   View of Gyeongju from Banwol-seong
   Enlarge
   View of Gyeongju from Banwol-seong

   Gyeongju has produced notable individuals throughout its history.
   Notable Gyeongju residents in the Silla period included most of the
   kingdom's leading figures, not only rulers but scholars such as Choe
   Chi-won and generals like Kim Yu-sin. The city continued to contribute
   to traditional Korean thought in subsequent dynasties. Relatives of
   Choe Chi-won played an important role in establishing the structures of
   early Goryeo. In the Joseon period, Gyeongju joined the rest of
   Gyeongsang in becoming a hotbed of the conservative Sarim faction.
   Notable Gyeongju members of this faction included the 15th-century
   intellectual Yi Eon-jeok. In modern times the city produced writer Park
   Mok-wol, who did a great deal to popularize the region's culture, as
   well as Choe Jun, a wealthy businessman who established the Yeungnam
   University Foundation.

   Many Korean family clans trace their origins to Gyeongju, often to the
   ruling elites of Silla. For example, the Gyeongju Kim clan claims
   descent from the rulers of later Silla. The Gyeongju Park and Gyeongju
   Seok clans trace their ancestry to Silla's earlier ruling families.
   These three royal clans played a strong role in preserving the
   historical precincts of Gyeongju into modern times.^ The Gyeongju Choe
   and Lee clans also trace their ancestry to the Silla elites. However,
   not all Gyeongju clans date to the Silla period; for instance, the
   Gyeongju Bing clan was founded in the early Joseon Dynasty. (For more
   information on the Korean clan structure, see the main article on
   Korean names.)

   The city remains an important centre of Korean Buddhism. East of the
   downtown lies Bulguksa, one of South Korea's largest Buddhist temples;
   nearby is Seokguram, a famed Buddhist shrine. Traditional prayer
   locations are found on mountains throughout Gyeongju. Such mountains
   include Namsan in the city centre, Danseok-san and Obong-san in the
   west, and the low peak of Hyeong-san on the Gyeongju-Pohang border.
   ^Namsan in particular is often referred to as "the sacred mountain,"
   due to the Buddhist shrines and statues which cover its slopes. ^

   The city has a distinctive dialect, which it shares with northern
   portions of Ulsan. This dialect is similar to the general Gyeongsang
   dialect, but retains distinctive features of its own. Some linguists
   have treated the distinctive characteristics of the Gyeongju dialect as
   vestiges of the Silla language. For instance, the contrast between the
   local dialect form "소내기" (sonaegi) and the standard "소나기" (sonagi,
   meaning "rainshower"), has been seen as reflecting the ancient phonemic
   character of the Silla language.^

   Gyeongju's cuisine is largely identical with general Korean cuisine.
   However, the city is known for some local specialties. The most famous
   of these is " Gyeongju bread," a red-bean pastry first baked in 1939
   and now sold throughout the country. Local specialties with a somewhat
   longer pedigree include beopju, a traditional Korean liquor.

Demographics

   In recent years, Gyeongju has followed the same trends that have
   affected the rest of South Korea. Like the country as a whole, Gyeongju
   has seen its population age and the size of families shrink. For
   instance, the mean household size is 2.8. Because this has fallen in
   recent years, there are more households in the city now (100,514) than
   there were in 1999, even though the population has fallen. ^

   Like most of South Korea's smaller cities, Gyeongju has seen a steady
   drop in population in recent years. From 1999 to 2003, the city lost
   9,500 people.^ The primary reason for this is the number of people
   leaving the city, mostly seeking jobs in major cities. In the early
   2000s, about 4,000 more people moved away from the city each year than
   moved in.^ During the same period, births exceeded deaths by roughly
   1,000 per year, a significant number but not enough to offset the
   losses due to migration. ^

   Gyeongju has a small but growing population of non-Koreans. In 2003,
   there were 1,778 foreigners living in Gyeongju. This number, although
   still a tiny fraction of the total population, was nearly double the
   number resident there in 1999. The growth was largely in immigrants
   from other Asian countries, many of whom are employed in the automotive
   parts industry. Countries of origin whose numbers have risen include
   the Philippines, China, Taiwan, Indonesia, and Vietnam. The number of
   residents from Japan, the United States, and Canada fell significantly
   in the 1999-2003 period. ^

Tourism

   Bulguksa temple in Gyeongju
   Enlarge
   Bulguksa temple in Gyeongju

   Gyeongju is a major tourist destination for South Koreans, and also for
   visitors from abroad. A great deal of this is due to the city's status
   as a centre of Silla heritage. In addition, the city government has
   successfully parlayed its historic status into a basis for other
   tourism-related developments such as conferences, festivals, and
   resorts.

   Many Silla sites are included in Gyeongju National Park. These include
   a number of profoundly symbolic sites, including the Royal Tomb
   Complex, the Cheomseongdae observatory, the Anapji pond, and the Gyerim
   forest. In addition, the Gyeongju National Museum hosts many artifacts
   from the Silla kingdom which have been excavated from sites within the
   city and surrounding areas, including several royal crowns and other
   national treasures.

   Some of Gyeongju's most famous sites relate to the Silla government's
   patronage of Buddhism. The grotto of Seokguram and the temple of
   Bulguksa were the first Korean sites to be included on the UNESCO World
   Heritage List, in 1995. In addition, the ruins of the old Hwangnyongsa
   temple, said to have been Korean's largest, are preserved on the slopes
   of Toham Mountain. Various Silla-era stone carvings of Buddhas and
   bodhisattvas are found on mountainsides throughout the city,
   particularly on Namsan.

   A significant portion of Gyeongju's tourist traffic is due to the
   city's successful promotion of itself as a site for various festivals,
   conferences, and competitions. Every year since 1962 a Silla cultural
   festival has been held in October to celebrate and honour the dynasty's
   history and culture. It is one of the major festivals of Korea. It
   features athletic events, folk games, music, dance, literary contests
   and Buddhist religious ceremonies. Other festivals include the Cherry
   Blossom Marathon in April, the Korean Traditional Liquor and Cake
   festival in March, and memorial ceremonies for the founders of the
   Silla Dynasty and General Kim Yu-sin.

Economy

   Two local butchers in an alley
   Enlarge
   Two local butchers in an alley

   The economy of Gyeongju is more diverse than the city's image as a
   tourist haven would suggest. Although tourism is an important component
   of the city's economy, most residents work in fields not related to
   tourism. More than 27,000 are employed in manufacturing, as compared to
   roughly 13,500 in the hospitality industry. Furthermore, the number
   involved in tourism has remained constant over recent years, whereas
   the manufacturing sector added 6,000 jobs from 1999 to 2003. ^

   The manufacturing sector is closely tied to that in nearby cities,
   depending on Gyeongju's ready transit links with Ulsan, Pohang, and
   Daegu. The automotive parts industry, also powerful in Ulsan and Daegu,
   plays an important role. Indeed, of the 938 incorporated businesses in
   Gyeongju, more than a third are involved in the manufacture of
   automotive parts. ^

   In addition, agriculture continues to play a key role, particularly in
   the outlying regions of Gyeongju. The city plays a leading role in the
   domestic production of beef and mushrooms. Fishing also takes place in
   coastal towns, especially in Gampo-eup in the city's northeast. There
   are a total of 436 registered fishing craft in the city. ^Much of the
   catch from these boats never leaves Gyeongju, going directly from the
   harbour to Gyeongju's many seafood restaurants.

   Other sectors are also active. For instance, a small amount of
   quarrying activity takes place in the city. There are 57 active mines
   and quarries in Gyeongju. Most are engaged in the extraction of kaolin
   and fluorspar.^ A nuclear power plant is located on the coast in
   Yangnam-myeon. It supplies about 5% of South Korea's electricity. ^

Education

   Formal education has a longer history in Gyeongju than anywhere else in
   South Korea. The Gukhak, or national academy, was established here in
   the 7th century, at the beginning of the Unified Silla period. Its
   curriculum focused on the Confucian classics. After the fall of Silla
   in the 10th century, the Gukhak closed. However, thanks to Gyeongju's
   role as a provincial centre under the Goryeo and early Joseon
   dynasties, the city was home to state-sponsored provincial schools (
   hyanggyo) under both dynasties. During the later Joseon dynasty there
   were several seowon, or private Confucian academies, were set up in the
   city.

   Today, the educational system of Gyeongju is the same as elsewhere in
   the country. Schooling begins with preschools, of which there are 65 in
   the city. This is followed by 6 years in elementary schools, of which
   Gyeongju has 46. Subsequently students pass through 3 years of middle
   school. There are 19 middle schools in Gyeongju. High-school education,
   which lasts for three years, is not compulsory, but the most students
   do attend and graduate from high school. Gyeongju is home to 21 high
   schools, of which 11 provide specialized technical training. At each of
   these levels, there is a mix of public and private institutions. All
   are overseen by the Gyeongju bureau of North Gyeongsang's Provincial
   Office of Education. ^Gyeongju is also home to a school for the
   mentally disabled, which provides education to students from preschool
   to adult age.

   Gyeongju is also home to four institutions of tertiary education. The
   smallest of these, Sorabol College, is a small technical college of the
   sort found in many small Korean cities. Each of Gyeongju's three
   universities reflects the city's unique role. Dongguk and Uiduk
   universities are Buddhist institutions, reflecting that religion's
   enduring link to the city. Gyeongju University, formerly Korea Tourism
   University, is strongly focused on tourism, reflecting the importance
   of tourism in the region.

Transportation

   The city lies at the junction of two minor lines operated by the Korean
   National Railroad. The Jungang Line runs from Seoul to Gyeongju, and
   also carries trains from the Daegu Line, which originates in Dongdaegu.
   In Gyeongju, the Jungang line connects to the Donghae Nambu Line which
   goes between Pohang and Busan.

   The Gyeongbu Expressway, which runs from Seoul to Busan, passes through
   Gyeongju. In addition, there are six national highways which crisscross
   the city. Thanks to the city's popularity as a tourist destination,
   nonstop bus service is available from most major cities in South Korea.

   High-speed trains do not currently serve Gyeongju, in part because the
   Gyeongbu Line does not pass through the city. However, high-speed
   service will be available after the completion of the Daegu-Busan
   portion of the KTX line, scheduled for 2010. The trains will stop at
   Singyeongju Station, in Geoncheon-eup south of Gyeongju's city centre.
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